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Repair Seized Center Focus Mechanism on Miniature Binoculars 2. Mechanismus für die Fokussierung 2. Rèparer le Mécanisme de Mise au Point Cnetral Saisi sur des Jumelles Miniatures 2. Reparera de Centrala Fokus Kikare: fri Beslag Ocular 2. La Reparación de un Mecanismo de Enfoque Centro Incautadas en Miniatura Prismáticos 2. Ripare il Meccanisimo di Messa a Fuoco Centrato sul Binocolo in Miniatura 2

The symptom of this problem is that the center focus wheel is impossible to turn, or is very hard to turn. This repair is based on heating the solidified optical grease that has seized the mechanism. Das Symptom dieses Problems ist, dass sich das zentrale Fokusrad nicht drehen lässt oder sich nur schwer drehen lässt. Diese Reparatur basiert auf der Erwärmung des erstarrten optischen Schmierfetts, das den Mechanismus ergriffen hat.Le symptôme de ce problème est que la roue de mise au point centrale est impossible à tourner, ou est très difficile à tourner. Cette réparation est basée sur le chauffage de la graisse optique solidifiée qui a saisi le mécanisme. この問題の症状は、中央のフォーカスホイールが回転できないか、回転しにくいことです。この補修は、機構を握った固化した光学グリースを加熱することに基づいている。 Симптом этой проблемы заключается в том, что колесо с центральным фокусом невозможно поворачивать или очень трудно поворачивать. Этот ремонт основан на нагревании затвердевшей оптической смазки, которая захватила механизм. Symptomen på detta problem är att centrumfokushjulet är omöjligt att vända, eller är mycket svårt att vända. Denna reparation baseras på uppvärmning av det stelnade optiska fettet som har gripit in mekanismen.El síntoma de este problema es que la rueda de enfoque central es imposible de girar, o es muy difícil de girar. Esta reparación se basa en calentar la grasa óptica solidificada que se ha apoderado del mecanismo.Il sintomo di questo problema è che la ruota di messa a fuoco centrale è impossibile girare o è molto difficile ruotare. Questa riparazione si basa sul riscaldamento del grasso ottico solidificato che ha bloccato il meccanismo.

On these Petlux Shannon 10x30 binoculars which have an ocular based central focus mechanism, the screw mechanism is located under the cap of the central pivot on the objective end of the hinge as shown in the picture on the left.

While these particular binoculars have a retention screw, notice that it is below the part line of the cap and as a result the screw DOES NOT secure the cap. On other similar binoculars there is a screw though the cap that does secure the cap against unscrewing the cap.

In this instance the cap would not unscrew with my fingers. So to get better access to the cap I removed both objective barrels, which did unscrew without a tool. If they don’t, use a rubber strap wrench

Removing the objective barrels made it easy to use a small rubber strap wrench to unscrew the pivot cap.

Heat the seized mechanism to soften the hardened optical grease (often gray in color). In this case it was frozen in a retracted position. Heat until the focus wheel turns by hand.

When the focus wheel turns extend the screw mechanism and heat some more. Then work the mechanism in and out with repetition to free it up, reheating if necessary. (It may tend to solidify as it cools). In this case working the mechanism in and out was sufficient to free it up. If it remains hard to operate then extend the screw, brush with a small wire brush and lube with fresh optical or silicone grease.

Once the focus mechanism is operating freely but with some resistance, reassemble the binoculars.

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Repair a Loose Center Pivot or Hinge on Miniature Binoculars. Repariere einen lockeren Drehpunkt oder ein Scharnier an Miniaturferngläsern. Réparer un Pivot Central Lâche ou une Charnière sur des Jumelles Miniatures. ミニチュア双眼鏡でルーズセンターピボットまたはヒンジを修復する. Reparera ett Löst Centrum Sväng Eller Hängsel på Minikikare. Repare un Pivote de Centro Fojo o una Bisagra en Prismáticos Miniatura. Riparare un Perno Centrale o Cerniera Allentato sul Binocolo in Miniature.

The symptom of this problem is that the two halves of the binocular flop open and shut and won’t remain adjusted for the distance between your eyes because the center pivot or hinge does not have enough friction. There are a a number of variations on exactly what tensions the pivot and how it does it depending on binoculars configuration.

Center Focus Where Oculars Move in and Out. Focus Wheel on Ocular Side .

On these 10x30 binoculars which have an ocular based central focus mechanism, the screw mechanism is located under the cap of the central pivot on the objective end of the hinge or pivot as shown in the picture on the left.

While these particular binoculars have a screw, notice that it is below the part line of the cap and as a result the screw DOES NOT secure the cap. On other similar binoculars there is a screw though the cap that does secure the cap against unscrewing the cap. On others there is no screw either part.

Sometimes the cap will simply screw off counter clockwise with your fingers, as near right. A trick that might work, as it is hard to get a good grip, is to wrap a rubber band around the cap as shown middle right. It might be possible to do that and use small pliers but I do not recommend it as the probability of a good outcome without damage is not great. It is better to get better access to the cap by removing both objective barrels as shown far right, which did unscrew without a tool. If they don’t, use a rubber strap wrench

Removing the objective barrels made it easy to use a small rubber strap wrench to unscrew the pivot cap. You will typically see a brass ring as shown far right on a Tasco Model 502

Check that the ring does not have a set screw anywhere that would need to be loosened to move the ring. The Tasco 502 pictured at right didn’t have one. You can then use a small screwdriver or a pointed screw and small hammer to walk the retaining ring by one of it’s tensioning holes to create more friction on the pivot. When satisfied, reassemble.

Tighten Pivot on Typical Independent Focus Miniature Binoculars

Remove the screw on the objective side of the pivot. ***NOTE***these screws are usually REVERSE THREAD and they UNSCREW CLOCKWISE! Also you often need a fairly wide but thinner than normal screwdriver to break these free without damage . As a result sometimes a hunk of cut sheet metal works better.

You will see a retaining collar around a central shaft internally and externally threaded. This Collar is what tensions the pivot or hinge. These are usually a normal thread and they tighten clockwise. Use a small screwdriver or piece of heavy wire or punch or nail and engage a hole and walk the collar by tapping your tool with a small hammer to the desired pivot tension.

Reassemble

Man Seeing Bright future with Binoculars

Fernglas-Reparatur, Réparation de Jumelles, Ремонт бинокля, 双眼鏡修理

Kikare Reparation, Reparación de Prismaticos, Riparazione del binocolo

How to Repair Original Boxes for Binoculars. Wie zu Reparieren Originalkartons für Ferngläser. Comment Réparer les Boîtes Originales pour Jumelles. Как восстановить оригинальные коробки бинокль. Hur man reparerar Original Lådor för Kikare. Cómo Reparar Cajas Originales para Prismáticos.

Few binoculars from 60 years back still have the pasteboard box they were originally sold in. One reason is that every pair of binoculars was sold with a carry case, so the box was not viewed as a necessary protection. For miniature binoculars, a good percentage of boxes were plain and rather generic, with only lettering, and sometimes only saying “Binoculars” and the power like 7x18 CF, without even the brand name. This was easier for contract Japanese binoculars assembling manufacturers. When binoculars do have the boxes, but falling apart, it is a nice touch to fix the boxes.

When one encounters the original pasteboard boxes for miniature binoculars, they are sometimes split at the corners. It is possible to repair them in a way that is inconspicuous (unlike using adhesive tape).

The tools I use include bookbinders white glue, spring clamps, metal angles, and a split frozen pop stick

Use the spring clamps and metal angles to align the edges of the corners, with the metal angle on the outside.

Use the pop stick to run a ribbon of glue along the corner on the inside. Once done, lay the box so the ribbon of glue is horizontal, so it does not run and pool.

Allow to dry. Then apply another layer. I usually apply several layers

Do the same on the outside. The bookbinders glue goes on white but dries clear.

If you wish, you can form a paper reinforcement and glue it along the inside corners. Some boxes has something like this so it does not look too out of place

Repaired box.

When an original pasteboard box that we are storing something in starts to fall apart, an easy fix is to just wrap some tape around it. We’ve all done that. Later if the item becomes “collectable” and the original box scarce we might wish we hadn’t. Some miniature binoculars original boxes turn up with taped “repairs” or just taped shut for storage (like the one pictured). This can sometimes be corrected, but the method does depend on the type of tape and type of adhesive on it.

An original 1950’s miniature binoculars box with lots of typical brown masking/ painters tape on it. This is a paper type tape with a water soluble adhesive.

The procedure is to wet a Q tip cotton swab with water and wet the paper tape a couple times. The idea is to wet the tape surface thoroughly to get to the glue under the tape, without wetting the label under the tape more than necessary.

When ready the tape will be soft with absorbed water and will sort of roll off the label with your fingernail with minimal force because the adhesive bond to the label has been broken, and without any of the label sticking to the tape. Wet the tape as much as required. One gets a feel for just the right amount. Just pulling the tape off without wetting it would pull the label surface right off with lots of damage.

Here is the pretty good result of 5 minutes effort as described. Not exactly museum class conservator work, but gratifying considering the bad initial look and minimal effort required. Other types of tapes like scotch/cellophane tapes require a different method. (The tape pulled damage to the label to the right of “PLUM” wasn’t me).

An original box with matt finish tape (Scotch ® Magic transparent cellulose acetate tape, so used post 1961), a pressure sensitive adhesive (PSA) based tape using an acrylate polymer adhesive The box already has some surface finish damage.

To remove the tape without further box surface damage, the tape is heated with a common bathroom hair dryer to weaken the adhesive bond. Then the tape should be pulled back on itself parallel to the box surface (exerting no “lift”).

The result of removal is good, with no additional box surface damage. Earlier pre WWII cellophane transparent PSA tapes used a rubber based adhesive that tends to yellow and lose bond to the cellophane. See book conservation methods for dealing with it, which sometimes also uses heat.

Cleaning the Metal parts of Binoculars Nettoyage des Parties Métalliques des Jumelles. Reinigen der Metallteile von Ferngläsern. Очистка металлических частей бинокля. 双眼鏡の金属部分のクリーニング . De Metalen Onderdelen van Verrekijkers Reinigen. Limpieza de las Partes Metálicas de Binoculars. Pulizia Delle Parti Metalliche del Binocolo.

Almost all binoculars of all types contain some parts that are made of aluminum alloy or zinc alloy die castings. In particular whatever part incorporates the slot intended for mounting a neck strap is almost always made of one of these alloys, and the portion of the frame incorporating the pivots are also. Both of these alloys are inherently corrosion resistant, but both are subject to some degree of slow forming coherent surface oxide (corrosion) in reaction to humidity and the components in environmental air. So paint is almost always applied to aluminum and zinc die castings as a barrier coating. But die cast parts tend to be complex shapes (that is what die casing is great at producing without requiring machining), and spray applied paint applied to irregular shapes thins where surface planes intersect. So old binoculars frequently have white surface oxide corrosion on edges that are either subject to wear or poor spray paint deposit. Physical cleaning calls for a brush aggressive enough to abrade off the surface oxide but at the same time gentile enough to polish rather than abrade the die cast metal and paint surfaces or leatherette . When the US military developed the M16/AR15/AR 10 family of rifles, which have now become ubiquitous, they extensively used 7075 aluminum alloy die cast receivers and parts. Since these present similar corrosion and cleaning needs to the die cast parts on binoculars, the bronze wire cleaning brushes for them work very well for cleaning the white surface oxides from binoculars.

Military type bronze cleaning brush for M16 rifles. Got mine from a mail order supplier called Type-III Products.

Old German Busch Solex binoculars with typical direct and migrated surface oxides that compromise the appearance.

Cleaning.

Results after a few minutes effort. Quick but dramatic improvement !

Miniature Binoculars, Jumelles Miniatures, Miniatur-Ferngläser

ミニチュア双眼鏡, миниатюрные бинокли